What does the wax actually do?
Wax works as a resist. Where it sits on the cloth, the dye cannot reach the fabric, so the pattern is left pale. To add a second colour, the cloth is waxed again over the areas that should keep the first colour, then dyed again. Each extra colour therefore means another round of wax and dye, and the number of colours tells you roughly how much work went into a cloth.
When the wax is drawn by hand, it is kept hot and flows from the spout of the tool, so the line thickens and thins as the hand moves. That variation is one of the easiest things to see in a shop.
Wax cracks as the cloth is handled and dried. Dye seeps into the cracks and leaves a fine network of lines, often called crackle. That crackle is a sign of wax work, but some printed imitations copy it, so it is a clue and not proof on its own.
How do you tell drawn, stamped and printed batik apart?
| Drawn | Stamped | Printed | |
|---|---|---|---|
| How the pattern is put on | Wax drawn freehand with a canting, a small pot with a spout | A copper or wooden block pressed into wax | Ink or dye pressed through a screen or roller, or applied by machine |
| Repeats | Few exact repeats, with lines that vary | The same motif in a regular grid | Exact repeats, usually perfectly aligned |
| Edges | Fine lines that thicken and thin, broken where the wax stopped | Crisp shapes with small wax or colour edges | Very sharp, even edges |
| Back of the cloth | Faint and softer than the front | Faint and softer than the front | Often as clear as the front |
If you want hand work, the drawn lines are the thing to look at, and an even line with no variation across a long cloth is a warning. Stamped cloth is a reasonable choice if you like a regular, bold pattern. Printed cloth is a fine souvenir, but it should be bought as printed cloth and not paid for as hand work.
Where is the batik sold in Bali made?
Batik is widely associated with Java, and batik is also made and sold in Bali. Batik on sale in Bali may have been dyed on the island, on Java or somewhere else. Neither origin guarantees quality, so the useful question is about the process, not the place. Ask the seller who applied the wax and whether it was done by hand. A seller who knows will say what method was used and can name the workshop without being pressed.
If you want to see the wax work being done, ask a workshop whether visitors can watch.
How should you check colour before you buy?
Use the reverse-side and colour checks on the textiles page first, then add one batik-specific step. Look at the edges of the wax lines under good light. Colour that has bled into a crack is normal in wax work, but colour that has run across a whole area suggests the dye was not set well.
If the stall allows it, bring a damp white cloth and rub a corner before you pay, because colour that comes off on white is the simplest sign of a weak dye. Ask how the cloth should be washed before you buy it. Cool water and drying in shade is the usual advice for dyed cotton. Do not test a colour on the centre of a sarong. Test a corner or a hidden hem, and be careful with any stall that does not want you to touch the cloth at all.
What should you ask a batik seller?
- Was the pattern drawn by hand, stamped with a block, or printed?
- How many colours does it have, and how many rounds of wax went into it?
- Where was the cloth dyed?
- How should it be washed, and is the colour fast?
A vague reply to the first question is a sign to look again at the lines. The markets page explains how to compare several stalls before choosing, which is useful because the same design is often on sale in more than one place.
Can you wear batik to a temple?
Batik sarongs can be worn for temple visits, but the rule for any cloth at a temple is the same. Whether to wear a sarong and sash, and how to tie them, is covered on the textiles page because it applies to every cloth, not just batik.
Where to go next
- If you want to see the craft in a working yard, the craft villages page explains how a visit works and what to ask on arrival.
- our practical guide to packing for Bali covers how to bring cloth home safely.